My 2023 Gluten-Free Travel Year in Review
I'm sharing my dining recommendations from around the world.
2023 was a big year for me, professionally and personally. I was promoted at my day job, launched this newsletter, and traveled more than I ever have. I visited five countries outside of the US this year: Italy, Spain, France, Belgium, and Argentina.
Whenever I travel, I make it a point to eat at as many gluten-free bakeries and restaurants as I can find. (You can read all of my celiac travel tips here to see how I find places to eat when I travel.)
With the end of the year right around the corner, I’m recapping my favorite international gluten-free dining experiences. If you’re looking for some gluten-free travel inspiration for next year, you’ve come to the right place!
Note: Not every restaurant I went to was a dedicated gluten-free establishment. If you have celiac disease, then I encourage you to do your own research and ask questions before dining. Check out my guide to cross-contact for advice on what types of questions to ask restaurant staff.
Bologna
My partner, Greg, and I planned an epic three-and-a-half-week trip through Europe, from mid-May through early June, to attend a variety of motorsports races that Greg (a sports writer) would be covering. Our first stop: Bologna! Unfortunately, the first race we were supposed to go to—the Emilia Romagna Grand Prix—was canceled due to flooding in the region. But we still had fun exploring Bologna, known as the food capital of Italy.
Tip: Download the AIC app to find restaurants certified by the Italian Celiac Association (AIC). As a visitor, you can purchase a two-week pass for $2.99.
Where I dined:
Pizzeria La Pantera Rosa: On our first night in Bologna, we had pizza. It was cold and rainy for the first couple of days of our trip, and this restaurant was only about a 10-minute walk from our hotel. All of their pizzas can be made gluten-free, and the restaurant is certified by the AIC.
Trattoria Vecchio Mercato: This was hands-down one of my favorite meals in Italy. This cozy dedicated gluten-free trattoria serves up the most amazing food, including gnocco fritto (fried dough), a Bologna specialty, which I got to try for the first time here.
Ristorante La Capriata: This is another AIC-certified restaurant that offers gluten-free versions of most menu items. Located in the city center, this is the ideal spot to dine after a day of exploring Bologna. In addition to the gluten-free gnocco fritto, I chowed down on chestnut tagliatelle.
Ristorante La Verace: The staff at Ristorante La Capriata recommended their sister restaurant for the gluten-free pizza. It’s less than a five-minute walk from MAMbo, the modern art museum in Bologna.
Grom: This is a dedicated gluten-free gelateria with locations around Italy. I went here in multiple cities, starting in Bologna.
Where I stayed:
Savhotel: Anytime I book a hotel reservation, I leave a note telling the staff I have celiac disease and asking if they have gluten-free options at breakfast. The servers at Savhotel went above and beyond. They actually had it written down in their notes that I had celiac, so when I went down to the restaurant for breakfast and gave my room number, they immediately brought me a gluten-free bread basket every morning! They also warmed up a gluten-free croissant for me as well. Plus, the hotel was a five-minute walk from Aldi, a grocery chain that offers a lot of gluten-free snacks.
Florence
After Bologna, Greg and I took the train to Florence for a few days. We explored all of the must-see touristy spots—including the Duomo, Uffizi Gallery, and Boboli Gardens—and had plenty of memorable gluten-free eats along the way. We even ran into one of my favorite celiac content creators—Jen of The Nomadic Fitzpatricks—at Sgrano!
Where I dined:
Sgrano: This gluten-free sandwich shop serves up enormous crispy paninis full of meats and cheeses. Seriously, Greg and I could’ve shared a sandwich instead of each getting our own because they were huge.
Ciro & Sons: We shared the octopus carpaccio appetizer, beef and onion pasta, and Portofino pizza (which had cherry tomatoes, burrata, mozzarella, pesto, and basil). This was the perfect amount of food for two people.
Mister Pizza: We stopped in here one day for lunch and shared prosciutto and burrata and a gluten-free pizza.
Risotteria Melotti Firenze: This restaurant has locations around the world, including New York City and Florence. We had arancini as an appetizer and then I had eggplant cream risotto with pesto and pistachios for an entree.
Raw Vegan Firenze: After many days of stuffing my face full of gluten-free bread, cheese, and pasta, I needed a break. I came across this vegan and gluten-free café in Florence and decided to give it a try for lunch. I admit it wasn’t my favorite food, but I was happy to eat a veggie-forward meal.
1950 American Diner: I get a kick of out seeing how other countries approach “American” food. So, one night in Florence, we ate dinner at this ‘50s-themed diner that has a gluten-free menu. The burger and fries were just OK, but the decor was on point.
Antica Gelateria Fiorentina: Upon arriving in Florence, my first order of business was to get gelato. This 100% gluten-free gelateria hit the spot!
Where I stayed:
Room Mate Luca: This boutique hotel was conveniently located a 10- to 15-minute walk from the main tourist attractions in Florence. They were also very accommodating to me at breakfast, offering me gluten-free bread when I asked.
Rome
Next stop on our European adventure: Rome! There were plenty of gluten-free options here, so I never went hungry as we explored the Pantheon, the Colosseum, and the Vatican and cheered on riders in the Giro d’Italia. I’ll be honest: Rome wasn’t my favorite city for food. Everything felt very touristy. I was thrilled that there were so many gluten-free options, but I had better food elsewhere.
Where I dined:
Pandalì: After getting off the train and dropping my suitcase off at the hotel, I was hungry. So, I stopped by this bakery for a cookie and brownie and even took some freshly baked focaccia bread to go!
Cimarra 4: Most of the menu items can be made gluten-free, so I had pasta carbonara on my first night in Rome. One of the reasons I chose this restaurant is because they also have mocktails! I had a non-alcoholic gin and tonic.
El Maìz: Upon booking a morning tour of the Vatican, I realized that there was a dedicated gluten-free arepa joint right nearby. Arepas are one of my go-to gluten-free options when I travel. We went here for lunch after our morning at the Vatican, and it hit the spot.
Pantha Rei: This restaurant is located right near the Pantheon and offers many gluten-free options. I had gnocchi with pesto.
Voglia di Pizza Gluten-Free: I had to eat as much pizza as possible in Italy, so I came here one night for dinner. We shared an order of bruschetta and two pizzas.
La Soffitta Renovatio: Located near the Vatican, it was worth the trip back on the metro to this area to eat at this AIC-certified restaurant. We shared fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and octopus carpaccio as appetizers, and then I had spaghetti all’amtriciana as my main course. We ended our meal with pistachio cheesecake!
Fatamorgana: There are so many dedicated gluten-free gelaterias in Rome. One of the best I tried was Fatamorgana. I went for pistachio and stracciatella.
Fiocco Di Neve: Another dedicated gluten-free gelateria I went to in Rome was Fiocco Di Neve, which is near the Pantheon. Here, I had nocciola (hazelnut) and dark chocolate.
Where I stayed:
Room Mate Filippo: Located on a quiet side street, Room Mate Filippo was less than a five-minute walk from the Spanish Steps and a 10-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain. It was so easy to get around by foot or metro from this hotel. Like the other hotels I stayed at in Italy, they were also very accommodating to me at breakfast.
Milan
This was my second time visiting Milan (my first time here was in September 2022 for the Italian Grand Prix). I stayed in an apartment-style hotel this summer so I could cook dinner for myself since for this part of my trip, I worked remotely on East Coast hours. Because I didn’t dine out a ton this time in Milan, I’ll share my recommendations from 2022 as well to give you more options. There may not be as much to do in Milan tourist-wise, but it’s actually my favorite Italian city for gluten-free eats.
Where I dined:
GluFree Bakery: I dream about the pistachio cream-filled croissants from GluFree Bakery. I came here multiple times while in Milan. This is a can’t-miss spot for gluten-free pastries!
PanPerMe: This is another nice gluten-free bakery in Milan. It’s a good spot to sit outside with a pastry and cappuccino. I had a quiche for brunch one morning.
Officina Zero: We came here a bunch on both of our trips to Milan because it was so conveniently located near where we were staying. I liked trying all the different flavored croissants. One morning, I got a pink chocolate croissant!
Bistrò: This was a really cute spot I went to for lunch by myself and then took Greg to on another occasion. The sandwiches are filling here, so if you come for lunch, then you probably won’t be hungry until dinnertime.
MamaEat: This is the first restaurant we went to in Milan in 2022. It’s an AIC-certified restaurant that also has locations in Rome and Florence. We shared a couple of gluten-free pizzas, including one with pesto sauce and cherry tomatoes.
La Rosa dei Venti: One of our first stops in Milan in 2022 also included this restaurant, which specializes in seafood. The restaurant is AIC-certified, and the chef has celiac disease. We let the waiter choose a variety of seafood dishes for us, and he didn’t let us down.
23 Risotti Casa Fontana: This is up there as one of the best meals I had in Italy. The chef came out and explained the menu (the risottos are meant to be shared), and he recommended a few appetizers that he could make gluten-free. We shared Risotto alla Monzese, which is prepared with saffron and sausage. The chef even gave us a booklet with his risotto recipe on our way out!
Ta Hua: Gluten-free dim sum in Milan? Yes, really! This Chinese restaurant serves up many items that can be made gluten-free. After days of eating pizza and pasta, we wanted something different—and this restaurant delivered. One of the dishes we shared was pineapple chicken—served in a pineapple!
Out of the Box Gelato: Everything here is gluten-free, and there are also many dairy-free options as well. I had pistachio, my favorite flavor.
Where I stayed:
Starhotels Anderson: This sleek four-star hotel is right across the street from Milano Centrale, making it easy to take day trips to other cities in Northern Italy. In 2022, we traveled to Parma, Turin, Lake Como, and Monza from here.
Resideza della Città: Situated on a quiet street only about a 10-minute walk from Milano Centrale, this apartment-style hotel had everything I needed for a successful few days of working remotely. I did my grocery shopping at CarreFour (there was a location less than a five-minute walk from here) and cooked dinner every night we were here in 2023.
Barcelona
Barcelona wasn’t originally on our itinerary. Instead, we were going to take the train to Switzerland after leaving Milan. But I wasn’t super-impressed with the gluten-free options in Geneva, and it seemed like everything was closed on the weekends in Switzerland. We decided to switch things up and head to Barcelona instead. We booked a flight and bought tickets to the Spanish Grand Prix while we were at it. I’m so glad we went because the gluten-free food (and all of the Gaudí architecture) was top-notch.
Where I dined:
En Ville: You can’t go to Spain without eating paella. Naturally, that’s exactly what Greg and I ordered to share here, along with Iberian ham croquettes and mango cheesecake, on our first night in Barcelona.
My Fucking Restaurant: OMG, this restaurant was amazing! I think we spent something like $45 per person for a 10-course tapas tasting menu. Everything here is gluten-free. We had beef tartare on gluten-free buns, prawns, squid, and more. This was one of the top dining highlights of my entire trip.
Out of China: It’s hard to find gluten-free Chinese food in the US, so I was excited to check out this restaurant in Barcelona. From dim sum to larger entrees, the gluten-free options are clearly marked throughout the menu.
Cal Marius 449: As the menu here says, “No gluten, no problem.” After a morning of walking around Park Güell, we stopped here for lunch, and I had pastrami on a gluten-free bagel.
Messié Sin Gluten: We were in the mood for pizza on our last night, so we came here and shared a couple of pies. Bonus: They also had nonalcoholic wine on the menu, something I had never seen before in Europe!
Gula Sana: We popped into this gluten-free bakery one afternoon for cappuccinos and a quick bite to eat.
Where I stayed:
Hotel Europark: This is another hotel where they brought me a basket of gluten-free bread every morning when I gave my room number to the server at breakfast. The hotel also had a rooftop lounge and pool. I brought my laptop up there to work a couple of afternoons. It was also walking distance from Casa Batlló and many of the restaurants I went to for dinner.
Paris
We followed up our time in Barcelona with a week in Paris. Greg covered the 24 Hours of Le Mans, while I—you guessed it—explored all of the gluten-free eateries I could find. While I found plenty of gluten-free food in Paris, I did think it was a bit underwhelming compared to what I ate in Italy and Spain. If you’ve never been to Paris before, it’s still totally worth checking out because it’s a beautiful city—but IMHO, it’s not a top destination for gluten-free food.
Where I dined:
Noglu: This is the bakery to go to for gluten-free croissants and pastries in Paris. They have a location in NYC, so I’ve tried their stuff before, but I had to check out the original location while I was here. I stayed within walking distance from Noglu and had a pain au chocolat almost every morning.
Copains: This gluten-free bakery makes the most decadent pastries. I ate a massive pastry filled with pistachio cream and took a piece of chocolate babka to go.
Kapunka: Thai food in Paris? Hey, if it’s a gluten-free restaurant, I’ll try it. I ordered my go-to chicken pad Thai and thought it was pretty good. I came back here another night to pick up dinner and got the Caesar salad spring rolls.
Tasca: Another night for dinner, we made a reservation at this gluten-free Italian joint within easy walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. Having just come from Italy, I can’t say it was up there with the most amazing meals I had, but it got the job done.
Mimi Cave a Manger: I found this hidden gem of a gluten-free Italian restaurant on Find Me Gluten-Free. This tiny spot is run by a celiac chef who hails from Italy. This was hands-down my favorite dinner in Paris. Greg and I shared fried egg yolk carbonara for an appetizer and I had risotto cooked in tomato water as my entree. I also couldn’t resist the tiramisu for dessert.
Apéti: We ate at this vegan restaurant for lunch one day, and they have many gluten-free options. I had avocado toast on top of bread from Chambelland, another gluten-free bakery in Paris.
Loulou Paris: Although not a dedicated gluten-free restaurant, this Australian eatery has plenty of options on the menu. We ordered takeout one night while we were working remotely on East Coast hours, and then on our last night in Paris, we dined in at the restaurant. It has the cutest vibes—and there are even nonalcoholic cocktails on the menu!
Where I stayed:
Hôtel Le Littré: This charming hotel is nestled in the 6th arrondisment. I chose it because it was less than a 10-minute walk to the Montparnasse train station (which made it easy to get to Le Mans), and it just so happened to also be in close walking distance of Noglu and a couple of gluten-free restaurants. They also had plenty of naturally gluten-free foods at breakfast, including meat, cheese, fruit, and yogurt.
Brussels
Our flight back to the US was from Brussels, so we planned to spend one day/night here. We didn’t have a ton of time to explore the city—but we still made it to the town center, where there are two gluten-free eateries. I would like to come back and spend more time here in the future!
Where I dined:
Veganwaf’: As soon as I put my suitcase down in my hotel room, I strolled over to this vegan, gluten-free waffle stand. I ordered a waffle covered in chocolate, which was a mistake (it was so messy to eat!)—but it was still delicious.
The Sisters Brussels Café: I did a quick search on Find Me Gluten-Free and decided on this restaurant right near my hotel for dinner. I had a sandwich on gluten-free focaccia bread, paired with homemade vegan soup.
Buenos Aires
Last but not least, I spent a week in Buenos Aires earlier this month. Greg was covering a motorsports race in Chile, so I flew down to meet him in Argentina afterward. It was so nice to escape the cold of NYC for a week—and there were plenty of gluten-free restaurants and bakeries to try all over the city.
Where I dined:
Cucina Paradiso Senza Glutine: Our first night in Buenos Aires, we headed to this gluten-free Italian restaurant. I accidentally ordered an entire pitcher of limonada for myself (oops!), and we shared arancini and gluten-free focaccia to start. Then, I had “spaghetti dell influencer” for my main course. In case you’re curious, the spaghetti was topped with burrata and pistachios.
Il Mandorla Smokehouse: For night two, we ate at this casual gluten-free sandwich spot. We shared a giant serving of nachos as an appetizer, and then I had the “Brooklyn” sandwich, which included ribs, pickles, and coleslaw.
Campobravo: I saved the best restaurant for night three. Campobravo is a dedicated gluten-free steakhouse with multiple locations throughout the city. We went to the one closest to our hotel in Palermo. I’m not a huge steak eater, so I got the beef ravioli in a white wine cream sauce, which was every bit as decadent as it sounds. Greg had a skirt steak, and we shared grilled veggies and fried yucca chips as sides.
Sintaxis: This casual gluten-free spot was right around the corner from our hotel, making it a very convenient option on our fourth night. I got a cheeseburger and fries and also filled up on a Caesar salad and the complimentary gluten-free bread basket.
Let It V: We needed a break from all the meat on our last night, so we dined at this gluten-free, vegan restaurant. We shared gluten-free bread with hummus, cauliflower ceviche, two veggie sushi rolls (including one called the “Lennon”), and glutinous rice gnocchi. I also liked that they had a zero-proof cocktail menu here.
La Unión Gluten-Free Bakery: This was one of two gluten-free bakeries we went to in Buenos Aires. We each got a medialuna (which I learned is a cross between brioche and a croissant), and I took a chocolate chip cookie to go. I ended up coming back here before my flight home to stock up on some goodies for my 10-hour journey.
Goût Gluten-Free: The second gluten-free bakery we went to was Goût. The medialunas here were fantastic. I also tried an apple crumble and had some macarons. We ended up coming here multiple times as well.
Where I stayed:
1828 Smart Hotel: This boutique hotel is located in Palermo Soho, a trendy neighborhood full of cafés, shops, and street art. I was within walking distance of multiple gluten-free restaurants and bakeries, and Uber was also a very affordable option to get around. Plus, the hotel offered gluten-free bread at breakfast, in addition to naturally gluten-free items like meat, cheese, and fruit.
Find more gluten-free travel destinations
I also traveled quite a bit within the US this year—including trips to Orlando, Seattle, Portland, and Washington, DC. Let me know if you’d like my gluten-free recommendations for any of these cities—and follow me on Instagram for more of my travels!
I also suggest subscribing to
by for her insights into traveling with celiac disease. She has reviews of Barcelona, Athens, Stockholm, and more in her newsletter. Happy travels!
Did you travel somewhere especially gluten-free friendly in 2023? Drop a comment and let me know!
WOW. I am bookmarking this post because there is a wealth of great information here — and I'm over the moon that you're recommending Gluten-Free Guidebook. Thank you so much, Christina! Here's to more great adventures in the new year!
Looks like a true dream trip, so many good recs to save!